All about the saddle

Introduction

A comfortable seat on your bike is essential for a great ride. The type of saddle is crucial (hardness, shape, recess, length, width), but so is the position. In this blog post, we explain how to adjust the saddle position (so we won't explain how to determine the ideal position). Even a small adjustment can make a big difference; it's often a matter of millimeters.

You can adjust the saddle position in three ways:

1. rake angle: point more upwards or point more downwards

2. horizontal: more forwards or backwards

3. vertical height: more or less leg extension

Adjusting the position of your saddle is a simple task. But it must be done accurately. At the end of this blog post, I'll explain that a saddle and seatpost do require some maintenance.

Required materials

• an Allen key or torque wrench - size 5

• an Allen key or torque wrench - size 3

• spirit level or spirit level app (on your phone)

• assembly Paste

• assembly Paste with carbon-grip

What should I pay attention to?

There are a few things to keep in mind when adjusting the position of your saddle:

• Do not tighten the screws more than the indicated torque (Nm).

• Even a small adjustment can result in a significant change in position, so adjust in small increments.

  
  

ADJUST POSITION Laval G-series 2023, 2024 en 2025

Adjust saddle tilt

We set the saddle tilt to 0 degrees by default. This means the saddle is parallel to the ground. Some people prefer a slightly lowered saddle tip. You can check the tilt with a spirit level or your phone (many phones come with a spirit level app). Keep in mind that a phone case can affect the reliability (for example, raised edges around the camera). A spirit level that's too long is also not recommended, as many saddles tend to slope slightly at the back.

• To adjust the lean angle, use a size 5 Allen wrench to loosen the bolt on the right side (the drive side). Turn counterclockwise to loosen.

• After a few turns, you'll notice you can adjust the saddle vertically. Don't use force; if it's difficult, loosen the bolt a bit more.

• Adjust the saddle to the correct position. Check this with a spirit level or a spirit level app.

• Then tighten the bolt again. Tighten clockwise. The maximum torque is 10 Nm. When tightening, make sure the other side of the bolt fits correctly into the recesses. The first image below is NOT correct, but the second image IS correct.

Move the saddle further forward and backward

• To move the saddle forward or backward, first loosen the large bolt on the right side a few turns with an Allen key (loosening is counterclockwise).

• Next, loosen the two bolts at the bottom with a size 3 Allen key. Loosen by turning counterclockwise.

• After a few turns of the small bolts, you'll notice you can adjust the saddle horizontally. Don't use force; if it's difficult, loosen the bolts a bit more (possibly the large bolt as well). It's recommended that you take a photo of the position of your saddle before adjusting it. You can also mark the position with a bit of tape.

• Adjust the saddle to the correct position.

• Tighten the small bolts again (clockwise). Note the maximum torque of Nm.

• Retighten the large bolt (clockwise). Note the maximum torque of Nm.

• Make sure the two conical discs are positioned evenly relative to each other. See also the assembly instructions below.

Adjusting the saddle height

• To adjust the height of the saddle, use a size 5 Allen key.

• Loosen the bolt with the Allen key (loose is counterclockwise); don't loosen the bolt completely, but enough so you can move the seatpost without much friction. If you loosen the bolt too much while the seatpost is out of the frame, it could come loose from the clamping strip, which could then sink into the frame. Note! You're probably looking at the bolt from below; the rotation direction is also described from this position.

• Adjust the seatpost to the correct height. Make sure the seatpost remains sufficiently seated in the frame; pay attention to the "minimal insert" marking.

• Also make sure that the saddle - if the seat post is round - is positioned with the point pointing straight forward.

• Tighten the bolt again with the Allen key (clockwise for tightness). Hand-tighten the bolt, but don't overtighten; 5 Nm is often more than enough. Experiment to see at what Nm the seatpost doesn't sag when you sit down.

• During initial assembly, we lubricate the seatpost with carbon grip paste. This paste contains micro-granules. This provides a little extra friction, so you don't have to tighten the bolt as much. It also prevents dirt and moisture from penetrating, preventing the seatpost from seizing up in the frame.

Periodic maintenance

It's recommended to remove the seatpost from the frame once a year with average use. This prevents the seatpost from getting stuck in the frame. You can read how to do this below. Once the seatpost is removed from the frame, clean the post and tube with a dry, lint-free cloth. Then apply a thin layer of carbon grip paste to the part of the seatpost that goes into the frame. You can read how to reinstall the seatpost above.

It's also recommended to perform periodic maintenance on the connection between the saddle and seatpost. For example, once a year with average use.

It's best to dismantle the entire structure. Don't forget to note the angle of inclination beforehand. And mark the position of the saddle rails with a bit of tape. You can read how to dismantle the entire structure above.

When everything is loose it looks like this.

• The two small bolts - which are still screwed in in this photo, but you can unscrew them completely - can then be given a new layer of Assembly Paste.

• You can also apply a new layer of Assembly Paste to the threads of the bolt in the bottom right corner of the photo. Note: Assembly Paste ensures that the bolts are always easy to loosen and prevents dirt and moisture from entering. However, Assembly Paste also reduces the effectiveness of the blue Loc-tite, which is factory-installed to prevent bolts from loosening easily. In short, when using Assembly Paste, regularly check that the bolts are still properly tightened.

• You can also provide the ridges on the conical discs with a layer of Assembly Paste.

Reassembly is done as follows.

• Place both conical washers in the ribbed recess of the seatpost. Make sure the recess for the saddle rails is facing up (not correctly shown in the photo above).

• Also, make sure both conical discs are in the same position, as they both need to clamp the saddle rails. This can be a bit tricky to visually align, but once the saddle is in place, you'll be able to see it more clearly relative to the rails.

• Install the left (so-called non-drive-side) clamping plate.

• Insert the nut (bottom left in the photo) through the hole in the left clamp plate.

• Now place the saddle.

• Now install the right clamp plate.

• Insert the bolt through the hole in the right clamp plate.

• Tighten the bolt slightly with the Allen wrench. Tighten clockwise.

• Before fully tightening the bolt, check that both conical washers are in the same position.

• Set the saddle at the correct angle. Check this with a spirit level or a spirit level app.

• Then tighten the bolt again. See above for further instructions.

• Adjust the saddle to the correct horizontal position (more forward or more backward).

• Now tighten both small bolts. See above for further instructions.